PANCAKE Day does not make much difference to me because I have a passion for pancakes and eat them all year round.

Pancake Day is on Shrove Tuesday, the last time for a good blow out for those fasting 40 days during Lent which starts the following day, on Ash Wednesday.

Apparently, eggs are symbolic of creation, flour for the staff of life, salt for wholesomeness, and milk for purity.

By all accounts, Shrove Tuesday was a day of revelry, signalled by the ringing of the pancake bell, when folk went home to make pancakes or join in revelry.

I must confess to a liking for the traditional pancake simply anointed with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and sprinkling of sugar. But the humble pancake now comes in many guises.

Apart from all the irresistible sweet pancakes, there are savoury pancakes. Try fillings of asparagus in a tarragon hollandaise, smoked salmon with cream cheese, wild mushrooms with a drop of truffle oil, roast red peppers with goat's cheese.

Then there are the flavourings you can mix into the batter - herbs such as chopped parsley, mint and coriander; slivers of lemon peel for a pancake with seafood filling; grain mustard or spices such as cinnamon and ginger.

Nor does all - or any - of the liquid in the batter have to be milk. Light beers such as wheat beer or pilsner work exceptionally well, adding a lightness and yeasty flavour - pictured here is my own version of crepes Suzette using cherry beer in the batter, and poured over the cherry filled crepes before flaming in brandy.

Cider is another option - or champagne, as you can see below in a recipe that will be equally fitting for Valentine's Day.

Every country has its own version of pancakes. The French have those wonderful lacy crepes with dozens of different fillings from simple cured ham to decadent fruit and liqueur - not forgetting the sturdier Breton pancakes made with buckwheat flour.

I'm especially fond of the Russian and Polish blinis, the plump little yeast pancakes topped with sour cream, smoked salmon or even caviar.

The Chinese have those yummy deep-fried pancakes filled with bean sprouts, prawns and pork - or spread with plum sauce then wrapped around shredded spring onions, cucumber and crisp Peking duck.

For the Italians it's cannelloni, pancakes with a variety of savoury fillings in a cream sauce liberally sprinkled with Parmesan then baked in the oven. The Mexicans have all sorts, from tortillas with mashed avocado and taco sauce to chili hot enchiladas.

We have some regional variations, too, like Scotch pancakes, a sort of griddle scone, feather light and delicious with honey or home made raspberry jam. So get out the flour and eggs - there's nothing flat about Pancake Day!

Here is a recipe devised by vegetarian chef Leon Lewis in his book More Vegetarian Dinner Parties. It could be the perfect choice for a romantic supper a deux.

Champagne Pancakes with asparagus and tarragon sauce

Makes four

For the pancakes

300ml (half pint) champagne or sparkling wine

160g (just over 5oz) sifted wholemeal flour

4 medium eggs

salt and pepper

oil for frying

Filling: 24 stems asparagus

For the sauce

50g (2oz) unsalted butter

100g (4oz) shallots, very finely chopped

30g (1.5oz) flour

300ml (half pint) milk

salt and pepper

pinch of nutmeg

60g (2oz) Gruyre cheese

1 tbsp each tarragon and chervil, finely chopped

1 tbsp lemon juice

Combine all pancake ingredients and leave for an hour. Make pancakes in the usual way, and keep them warm. Meanwhile, boil the asparagus briefly in salted water until just tender but still firm.

To make the sauce, fry the shallots in the butter until soft and translucent, add the flour, continue to fry gently for 1-2 minutes then slowly add the milk. Increase heat until sauce bubbles and thickens, then lower heat and add seasonings, herbs and cheese. Finally, add the lemon juice.

Fold each pancake over four asparagus spears, and pour over the hot sauce.