WATFORD is mentioned as far back as the 10th Century, when the Saxon queen Ethelgifu left "the lands of Watford" to Leofrune, the origin of the name is obscure, but the town grew as Watford Street, simply a row of buildings leading up from the River Colne along what we now know as High Street.

Ye Corner is what it has been for years, a traffic nightmare, as all traffic is obliged to negotiate Bushey Arches. The railway viaduct is 50 feet high but seems higher. Glancing up, I wondered how someone named Cliff contrived to write "Lorraine I Love You" on one of the parapets. Presumably Lorraine passes this way too.

A right of way leads into Oxhey Dell, where fields and trees occupy the south bank of the River Colne. Ten marks out of ten to the planners, but such a pity the information notices every few yards are defaced and unreadable. From the path, one can explore from below the railway arches. Today, small children were sliding gaily from the top of the embankment, next to the railway, to the bottom, under the "supervision" of an adult. Boys will be boys, but shouldn't grown ups be more responsible?

I retraced my steps to Lower High Street, and headed for town, past B&Q, where Watford might have been born. The old buildings, many of them shops, are long gone, replaced by modern business premises. I wondered what the designers of the original stores would make of a ghastly pyramid-shaped edifice by the side of the ring road. Or the huge hornet (I think) outside McDonald's (I like the thing). I headed past the Robert Peel (1888) and turned up George Street, where Watford has better to show for itself.

The Bedford almshouses, with their tall, double chimneys, and nearby Dame Fuller's Free School, put modern architecture to shame. The latter, in Queen Anne style, was "built and endowed for teaching poor children" in 1704. Boys were taught to "read and write and cast accounts", girls to "read and work at their needle". Dame Fuller and, later, the trustees, continued to finance education here for 150 years. Broken guttering hangs from the roof now, and I hope renovation work is planned.

And so to St Mary's parish church, Watford's most ancient monument, as the church guidebook says, adding, almost apologetically, that "no part of the existing building dates from earlier than 1230". Outside, the council is trying to create a "town square", where people might take respite after trekking through the Harlequin shopping centre, perhaps, or simply enjoy peace close to the old church. A group of men drinking lager were taking advantage of this new facility as I passed by.

I headed on up High Street, now thankfully free of traffic, as all high streets should be. You hear folk knocking Watford, but here you can wander at will without looking over your shoulder, or breathing in the exhaust fumes of passing lorries. There's lots to see, Jacksons the jewellers, and the Palace Theatre of 1908, for example. Or a strange W-shaped edifice, derided by anyone who has expressed an opinion about it, to me anyway. Perhaps the names and addresses of those who would foist such creations on good citizens should appear on their dubious creations.

Beyond the underpass is the Parade, until recently the victim of the Harlequin shopping centre, whose shops draw the crowds, but latterly rejuvenated with cycle lanes and continental-style cafes, where customers can sit outside on wide pavements.

Through the underpass progress remains traffic-free. And here is the Town Hall. The foundation stone was laid in 1938, but not everyone liked what they saw: "something to shudder at and pass by". But I think it's OK, as town halls go, with its curved frontage and clock, an imposing building which heralds a welcome to Watford for the stranger, or welcome home if you've been away. I suppose I fall into both categories.

My walk ended at the Peace Memorial, where three statues commemorate the Fallen, the Wounded and Victory. Watford can be proud of a unique artwork, and much else besides.

Approximate distance: 1.25 miles

Start and Finish: Ye Corner (corner of Chalk Hill/Aldenham Road)

Route

Chalk Hill Oxhey Dell Lower High Street High Street King Street George Street High Street

Routefinder

Pass under Bushey Arches, turn l. into Oxhey Dell, by R. Colne. Retrace steps to Lower High Street, turn l. towards town centre to High St station, cross ring road into High Street. Turn l. into King St, r. into George St to almshouses, Fuller School and St Mary's church. Cont. up High Street, through underpass to Peace Memorial (opp. library).

Pubs

Many in and around the town centre

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.