FIRST it was the Roman road. It was later known as Watling Street, then it became the A5, later known as the Holyhead Road.

As it bisected Markyate, it was no wonder the village was important, notably for its coaching inns, the Sun and the Swan, which offered rest for the passengers and a change of horses. As early as 1934, motor traffic, was so heavy that they imposed a 15mph speed limit. Then, after a vigorous campaign, Markyate was by-passed.

In driving rain, I headed across the fields for Flamstead, the famous spike of St Leonard's Church a distant guide. On the left, the shallow Ver valley was the ideal route for that Roman road, built nearly 2,000 years ago. More recent footpaths and stiles were on the route today, although I had trouble crossing one of the latter where a horse gnawed at the wooden cross-post. It refused to move an inch to allow me to pass, no matter how many excuses I offered.

In the end, I squeezed past his stubborn head and left him to it. He's probably still there, chewing away.

With boots rapidly becoming muddy, I came to Friendless Lane, which leads to Flamstead High Street. Here, within the space of a few yards, are the old almshouses, the Three Blackbirds pub and St Leonard's.

The almshouses were given to the village in 1669 by Thomas Saunders. They still retain their quaint old world charm, except that one has a television aerial fixed to a chimney.

The pub dates back to the 15th Century, and the church tower to the 12th. All are worth exploration as you pass by, before taking to the fields again. But be warned: after rain, the bridleway to Trowley Bottom is very muddy indeed.

A quiet lane is followed by more cross-country hiking. At a stile there's a notice: Landowners welcome careful walkers. For a cup of tea and to dry out, perhaps? The right-of-way leads to Gaddesden Row, the route of another Roman road: note how straight it is.

The nearby Chequers inn recorded on the site as far back as 1632, when it was a farmhouse at which travellers could buy ale and bread. You can still, unless like me you feel obliged to pass it by rather than leave its floor under a huge puddle.

A long cross-country trek leads to Bridens Camp where a lane turns into the entrance of the Gaddesden estate. It is named after the former Manor of Gatesden which was given by the Saxon Ethelgifu to St Albans Abbey, then by William the Conqueror to Edward of Salisbury, after which it changed hands umpteen times until this land came into possession of the Halsey family.

Crossing rain-soaked fields, I found myself facing a superb mansion, Gaddesden Place, the family seat of the Halseys. It was built in the English Palladian style to replicate the original building of 1768, sadly destroyed by fire in 1905. The house overlooks the sweeping valley of the Gade, where Great Gaddesden nestles quietly, as it has done for centuries.

Great Gaddesden is certainly worth a diversion, not least to visit the Church of St John the Baptist, with Roman bricks among the stone, and the Cock and Bottle for refreshment. Alternatively, head north to the woods (and more mud if it's raining) and beyond, where an ancient track makes a beeline for the Golden Parsonage, a former home of the Halseys.

The present house dates back to 1706 and is built on medieval foundations. Just as you think you might get a close look, the right-of-way turns away, heading across country again until it emerges at the road. I pressed on, still in the rain (I was enjoying it, really).

Nearing Beechwood School, redirected but well-marked rights-of-way lead around the school field then join the private road as it passes by the front of the impressive building. The rain was with me every step as I pressed on, crossing fields, awash in the unending rain. I'd not seen a soul all day. I wonder why.

Routefinder

Start and finish in the car park behind Markyate Tandoori, High Street, Markyate.

Abbreviations

l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge. r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house. m. = mile. s/post = signpost. f/post = fingerpost. b/way = bridleway. ch. = church. f/p = footpath.

Directions

Cross High St, take Pickford Rd., turn l, public footpath sign: Flamstead. Follow r.o.w. to Flamstead, using spike of church as guide.

Pass thru kissing gate, s.w. corner churchyard, follow f/p to Pie Corner, turn r. f/p sign. Turn r., alongside back of houses to valley bottom, turn r. (w) at 2nd kissing gate, b/way to Trowley Bottom.

Main rd, turn l, past farm, r. at fork, to Puddephatts Farm and main rd. Cross over stile into field beyond, r.o.w. to main rd. Turn l, pass Chequers PH, turn r. Public Footpath Bridens Camp. At Bridens Camp, turn r. onto rd., turn l. after double bend into Gaddesden Estate. Cross stile on l., cross field s.w. to front of Gaddesden Place (mansion). Retrace steps, head n. into woods, past Home Farm, turn r. towards the Old Parsonage.

400 yds before house, turn l. on r.o.w. to rd, turn r. to main rd. Turn l. then r. (n) for 0.5m, then follow r.o.w. around Beechwood School fields, turn l. past front of school, r. at Home Farm, past Roe End, turn l. on r.o.w. to Markyate.

Pubs

Markyate: lots; Flamstead: Three Blackbirds; Gaddesden Row: The Chequers; Bridens Camp: Crown and Sceptre; Great Gaddesden (off-route): Cock and Bottle.

This walk is very muddy in places after rain.

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.