SPRING in mid-February; a day to die for. It must be this global warming, I thought, as I looked across the rich-green Mimram valley from sun-kissed Kimpton church, the perfect day for walk.

Soon, I was on the Hertfordshire Way, the only indication of life was a fleeing hare, and an unseen woodpecker rattling away in a nearby wood. I came to an ancient, arched bridge now, alas, in decay. I thought it bridged the Mimram. But no, the river passes under the lane a little further on. Why the bridge exists is a mystery.

The Way led through lots of woodland, finally crossing a meadow to the north of Codicote, where a path weaves its way to St Giles' church, the oldest building in the village. A notice in the churchyard marks the grave of John Gootheridge, who died October 30, 1824, and was "reburied a week later". The explanation is that body-snatchers stole Mr Goothridge's body in the name of research. Fortunately, they were able to restore him to his rightful place.

I headed north for Old Knebworth, where pretty cottages and The Lytton Arms are pleasing to the eye, all taken in stride, as it were.

Finally, at a cottage with diamond-shaped leaded windows, I took the footpath into Knebworth Park.

In the Domesday Book, Knebworth was "Chenepeworde" the house on the hill. Today's Knebworth House has been home to the Lytton family for 500 years.

In 1843, an architect was engaged to alter it to the sort of Gothic mansion we see today, with strange-looking turrets and towers. Visitors include Queen Elizabeth I, Charles Dickens, who took part in amateur dramatics here, and Sir Winston Churchill, who painted here.

For me, on this lovely day, the splendour of Knebworth was the church, the nave and chancel dating back to circa 1120. The enjoyment of the view northward is not marred in the slightest by the drone of traffic on the distant A1(M). How many who come this way will have memories of the pop concerts they attended a few years ago?

I walked along the main drive, and, after several glances back to the church, cut through the woods, passing a muddy pond whose occupants, a few ducks, seemed oblivious to its murky waters.

Emerging at Langley, I was on course for the flight path to Luton airport, with Easyjet dropping in, the enormous telephone number clearly distinguishable on the aircraft's fuselage. Then the path crossed the fields to St Paul's Walden.

The parish dates back to 888, the time of King Alfred, although the Celts were around a thousand years before that.

A plaque inside the church says the Queen Mother was born in the parish, but she was not. (She was born in London). Evidently, the "mistake" is down to an oversight by her father, Lord Glamis, who, in his excitement, forgot to register the birth and was fined 7/6 (37.5 pence!). So he said she was born nearby at St Paul's Waldenbury instead, which he preferred to the truth a town house in London. Who could argue?

The church guide mentions the Queen Mother's "very special affection" for All Saints, and no wonder, for the nearby Bury was her childhood home. Today, as I passed it by, a million snowdrops adorned its rich lawns, a scene worthy of an artist's brush.

Once again, the Mimram valley lay ahead, as I dropped down into Whitwell. Once, there were seven pubs in the village.

James Sharp, village postman, wrote a poem about them:

Mind the Bull don't toss you boys,

Or the Swan pull you in.

The Maiden's Head has often led

Young people into sin.

The Eagle has sharp claws, you know,

The Fox can snarl and bite.

The Little Lamb can butt and ram,

The Woodman lay you low.

You might want to call yourself and check it out. Opposite, the Hertfordshire Way leads you back to Kimpton, and refreshment in either of its two ancient inns. Well earned.

Routefinder

Start and Finish Kimpton Church, east of village, on Hitchin Road.

Abbreviatons: r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house m. = mile s/post = signpost; f/post = fingerpost b/way = bridleway ch. = church f/p = footpath l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge

Take the Hitchin Rd (B651), turn r. at sign "Private Drive Footpath Only", for half m. Hertfordshire Way to Codicote (B656). Cross rd, follow f/p to St Giles ch. Head n. on Bury Lane, take r. fork into Sally Deards Lane, at

white cottage take b/way to Nup End. Turn r. to Old Knebworth, passing Lytton Arms. Beyond, fork l. into Old Knebworth Lane. At cottage with diamond-shaped windows, take public f/p into Knebworth Park. Cross lawn (r.o.w.), passing House, then n. along drive to wood. Do not pass through gate turn l, flanking wood 250 yds, bear r. by fence by stagnant pond, climb high ladder stile, head n.w. for Burleigh farm. Straight on to road at Coachhouse Taverna, Langley. Turn r. to X-roads, then l. past Langley farm, follow rd. 0.5m to left-hand bend, take f/p to St Paul's Walden (church). Head s. Hertfordshire Way to St Paul's

Waldenbury, then s. to Whitwell, where turn l. main street, then r. opposite The Bull Inn. Take the Hertfordshire Way for Kimpton.

Pubs

Kimpton: The White Horse, The Boot; Old Knebworth: The Lytton Arms; St Paul's Walden: The Strathmore Arms; Whitwell: The Maiden's Head,

The Bull Inn.

NOTE: This is a longer walk than usual.

But the terrain is level, and the walking "easy".

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.