VIEWED from a far corner of the churchyard, Sandridge's church is a gem. It's dedicated to St Leonard, a 6th Century hermit who assisted a queen in a difficult labour, for which the king granted him land to build a monastery, after which he resolved to release every prisoner of war he visited.

Not surprisingly, he became popular with pregnant women and Christian prisoners during the Crusades.

As you leave the churchyard, pause at the lych gate, which serves as a war memorial. To see the names as you enter the church is a fitting tribute, surely.

Next to the playing field, long-horned (and long-haired) Highland cattle were a surprise. They look so fierce, but are as docile as their English cousins. Beyond Sandridgebury, a good path leads across the railway to Cheapside farm where the notice tells you to keep your dog on a lead: "Rat poison has been put down."

Just before the double bend of the lane, an ancient, rutted track crosses open country. It leads to Harpenden Common, where a handful of golfers were taking advantage of "air as sweet and pure as any corner of the British Isles".

Passing the Three Horseshoes, a bridleway leads to the road past Ayres End. Beyond, a narrow track enters the fine woods of Nomansland.

The name dates back to ancient disputes between the Abbots of Westminster and St Albans. They couldn't agree on ownership, so neither occupied it! In the 19th century the common was the venue of prizefighting, including a 99-round fight in which a man died. Some fight. Some knockout!

More famously, the Common was the haunt of highwaymen, including the Wicked Lady, Katherine Ferrers of Markyate. Lady Ferrers fell upon hard times when her husband squandered her fortune on the Royalist cause in the Civil Wars, so she earned money by robbery until one fateful night when she was shot and mortally wounded by bounty hunters secreted in a wagon. Lady Ferrers, mask and all, appears on the sign of the inn, where a detailed account of her nocturnal activities can be found in the bar.

Just before Wheathampstead, a right of way leads to a lane. Head north for a mile to a narrow gateway, which heralds your arrival at one of the oldest monuments in the country, "Belgic Oppidum". Here, Julius Caesar "probably" defeated Cassivellaunus, the British King, in 54 BC. Beyond the gate lies Devil's Dyke, a 40 foot ditch which happily also carries the right of way along its leafy floor.

At the top of the dyke, a large field occupies what must have been the scene of battle. It's quiet now, but imagine if you will the cries of men, the clash of steel, as Caesar's men crushed the last British resistance to an occupation that would last 400 years.

The Hertfordshire Way leads to Coleman Green, where the John Bunyan pub stands alongside the Roman road from Verulamium to Colchester. Further on, a ruined chimney marks the house where Bunyan reputedly stayed and preached.

As a strong believer in religious freedom, Bunyan struggled against the established church and was imprisoned for his views.

Back down the road, the Hertfordshire Way heads across fields and through woods to Symondshyde farm. Beyond, an ancient bridleway threads through more woodland to Fairfolds farm.

Then, a country lane leads to a crossroads of paths where, turning right, you're faced with a prominent sign: STOP PRIVATE ROAD. Fortunately, this applies to vehicles and not pedestrians so you can continue past Capps Cottage to see the Home Office wireless station, which looks like a prison enshrouded in coils of wire.

Re-entering Sandridge, spare a thought for one-time verger, William Archer, who dug graves in the churchyard. On his tombstone appears the following:

"For many years I added dust to dust,

Ashes to ashes in my neighbours' graves.

Now Lord, my dust and ashes I entrust

To thee, whose death from death eternal saves.

Comes to us all in the end."

Routefinder

Start and Finish: St Leonard's Church, Sandridge

(park opposite Queen's Head PH).

Abbreviations: l = left; r = right; n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west; br = bridge; r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house m = mile.

Turn l. onto High Street, r. to Spencer Playfield, r.o.w. to Sandridgebury | Turn l. for Childwick Green | Pass through Cheapside Fm, turn r. on road, r. on track before double bend on r.o.w., to road | Turn l. and r. into East Common |Turn r. past Three Horseshoes PH, r. to Ayres End, l. for Nomansland | At Bull Lane, straight on through woods to Wicked Lady PH. | Head n. by roadside to 1st houses, Wheathampstead, turn r. across cornfield | At road turn l m. to entrance, Belgic Oppidum | Walk along Devil's Dyke (ditch) almost to far end, where, emerging on lane, turn l. at first sign: Coleman Green | Take Hertfordshire Way to John Bunyan PH and ruined chimney beyond | Head s.w. along road, l. (Hertfordshire Way) through woods to Symonsdshyde Fm, where turn r. to lane, r. then l. into Symondshyde Great Wood | Follow r.o.w. to junction of paths, turn l. (south) to Fairfolds Fm | Turn r. on road, l. at fork r. past STOP PRIVATE ROAD sign to road |Turn l for Sandridge.

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.