ASHRIDGE, the ridge of the ashes, is the venue of Sunday afternoon sojourners making pilgrimage to the grand monument commemorating Francis Egerton, the 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, remembered as the father of inland navigation, thanks to his canal-building projects, especially the Bridgewater Canal in Lancashire (although not the nearby Grand Union).

The Duke favoured lucrative canal ventures over the maintenance of his lands at Ashridge and Gaddesden.

I headed along Princes Ride, after crossing the main road, the territory of walkers and horses. A sign ordering "horses keep to the right" is ignored by some riders with the result that the ground is churned up and muddy. But better ground follows as the right of way crosses the golf course and continues to Little Gaddesden. It's all very grand, and reassuring to know the entire estate is in the hands of the National Trust.

Part of the Bridgewater Arms in Little Gaddesden was once used as a classroom for a nearby school, whose pupils were obliged to climb through a window to avoid passing through the bar. Fortunately, walkers do not need to do so.

Unusually, the Church of St Peter and St Paul stands outside the village it serves, possibly due to the black death in the 14th Century when the original wooden houses of the village were located hereabouts. An extract from a poem in the church porch reads: Time that thou spendest humbly here shall link thee with men unknown. So it will, since early church records date back to 1161, and a Saxon church might have stood here before then.

The right of way crosses the broad ridge to Hudnall, with many grand houses to view on the way to St Margaret's, then the footpath runs down to sleepy Nettleden. Seated in the porch of St Lawrence's Church, you can imagine the village of years ago. There is surely little difference to today's timeless setting. Some of the cottages date back to the 17th and 18th Centuries, and were occupied by the estate workers of Ashridge.

A waggonway runs alongside Pightle Cottage and climbs through a deep cutting where ancient trees cling to ivy-covered walls built by craftsmen. It passes beneath a bridge, evidently once used by those favoured to visit Ashridge, whose progress would, thus, not be impeded by commoners on the waggonway below. At the top of the hill, the path follows the ridge across broad meadows and through woodland to the Golden Valley and the Ashridge Estate, and thence to Ashridge House.

A monastery once stood on the site but the monks were driven away during the dissolution and it became a royal residence, where Henry VIII's children, Edward, Mary and Elizabeth, stayed. In 1554, Elizabeth was placed under arrest here on the orders of her sister, Queen Mary, on suspicion of complicity in the Wyatt rebellion, and she was later taken to the Tower. Fortune ultimately smiled on her when she was released and went on to rule as Queen for 70 years.

The monastery was demolished on the orders of the aforesaid 3rd Duke who, belatedly perhaps, decided he wanted a new mansion on the site. Sadly, he died before work was complete, but the mansion was completed, the building we see today. It has been visited over the years by royalty, politicians and even film stars, including Clint Eastwood and other Hollywood luminaries when they made The Dirty Dozen here in 1967. During the war, the wounded from Dunkirk were brought to Ashridge House which served as an emergency hospital. Today, it's a management college.

Re-entering the forest, the monument once more comes into view, still a mile-and-a-half off. It was built (after his death) because the Duke wanted a monument to his memory, and sports a giant orb on the top, not a statue of the Duke as might be expected. His wife didn't like it, so she had it built well away from the house. A wise choice, especially for those who climb to the top. The views are stunning.

Approximate distance: 8.5 miles

Start and finish: Bridgewater Monument, Ashridge Estate

Route

South-east along Prince's Ride, Ashridge Golf Club, Little Gaddesden, Little Gaddesden Church, Hudnall, St Margaret's, Nettleden, Golden Valley, Ashridge House

Abbreviations

l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge r.o.w. = right of way. PH public house m. = mile s/post = signpost f/post = fingerpost b/way = bridleway ch. = church f/p =footpath

Directions

NOTE: The first part of this walk crosses several fairways of Ashridge golf course. Care is needed.

South-east along Prince's Drive, cont. across rd 250 yards, bear half-left on r.o.w. over fairway to clubhouse and cont. to Bridgewater Arms, Little Gaddesden. Follow r.o.w. to church.

Take r.o.w. to Hudnall, straight on at X-roads for St Margaret's for 1.5 m., turn r. for Nettleden. Take waggonway alongside Pightle Cottage, (through cutting), take r.o.w. n.w. to Golden Valley, climb half left to Ashridge House (management college). Pass front of building, turn r. then l. for Bridgewater Monument in view ahead.

Pubs

Little Gaddesden: Bridgewater Arms

Great Gaddesden (off route): Cock and Bottle

Aldbury (by car after the walk): several

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.