THE heath at Colney Heath is the remains of the former lands of Tyttenhanger, once owned by St Albans Abbey, in the old days it was the haunt of highwaymen, including, no doubt the ubiquitous Dick Turpin, whose name crops up everywhere.

I left the village on a grey Sunday morning, heading east along a right of way leading across open fields of scrub and weeds. Here and there, bright red poppies danced in small groups, as though trying to make the scene prettier, which they did. At the motorway bridge, progress was almost blocked by brambles and weeds growing wild by the narrow gateway, suggesting that few venture this way.

The path led to an ancient lane, now disused thanks to the motorway, where beech and holly form an effective barrier to the noise of traffic. In moments I was transported to another era, a time of silence, of nature undisturbed.

Further on, I entered the quiet streets of Welham Green, where the road leads to Balloon Corner, at the bottom of Huggins Lane. Here, the Balloon Stone commemorates the first ever balloon flight in England, by Vincenzo Lunardi in September 1754.

Lunardi had set off from London and came to rest briefly hereabouts, long enough to disembark one passenger a kitten before drifting off again.

Far from receiving acclaim for risking his life on this maiden flight, Lunardi was castigated for risking the life of the poor kitten, which was picked up by a nine-year-old girl who promptly sold it to a gentleman on a horse.

I continued through the village, noting that the clock above the door of the Memorial Hall proudly bears the date AD 2000. Perhaps in years to come it, too, will become a famous landmark in this area.

A right of way crosses fields to Water End. The village comprises a row of pretty cottages and two pubs, each with a beer garden, far enough into the walk to merit a visit, to one, at least. Then I re-crossed the motorway, bound for North Mymms church. There is no village of that name: the parish is made up of several small communities and its church stands gloriously isolated in the grounds of North Mymms Park.

The view ahead was pleasing: a cricket match was in progress, the tower of the church visible ahead. I could have been anywhere in England at that moment: the sound of bat on ball, faint applause, the shy church, described as the most charming in Hertfordshire, awaiting my arrival.

I was eager to see St Mary's, and I was not disappointed. It stands in a lovely setting of trees and gravestones, a quiet oasis off the busy A1, as the guide says. The north chapel dates back to 1328, when the lord of the manor, Simon de Swanland, was granted licence to build the church.

It is said that the dead of a battle during the Wars of the Roses are buried in unmarked graves nearby, but this may or may not be true. What is fact is the magnificent wellingtonia, a giant redwood which graces the churchyard. It was planted during the Victorian era and I have never seen its equal.

The right of way follows the lane through the park, leading on to a rough track where I encountered a group of youngsters carrying rucksacks. Good to see, although one was on her mobile phone. Must there be contact with others, even when backpacking? It seems so. It's a pity, don't you think?

Further on, a public bridleway leads to Redwell Wood Farm, where the wide valley of the Colne opens up, and the traffic noise of the M25 awaits. Rights of way then traverses prairie-like farmland before emerging onto the busy road, where I made haste to the lane leading to the derelict Tyttenhanger Farm. Across country is the ancient heathland of Colney Heath. Here, the lucky locals walked, enjoying the delights of the heath.

Finally, I arrived at St Mark's Church, with its steeple, before returning to the village where, on a sultry afternoon, I had the choice of several watering holes to quench my thirst. Lucky me.

Approximate distance: 8 miles

Start and Finish: Recreation ground

car park, High Street, Colney Heath

Route

High Street, Colney Heath, Welham Green, Water End, North Mymms church, North Mymms Park, Redwell Wood Farm, Tyttenhanger Farm, the Heath, Colney Heath

Abbreviations

l.=left. r.=right. n. s. e. w.=north, south, east, west. br.=bridge r.o.w.=right of way. PH=public house m.=mile s/post=signpost f/post=fingerpost b/way=bridleway ch.=church f/p=footpath

Directions

East along High St & Tollgate Lane to Tollgate Farm. R.o.w. across field to f/br. A1(M), turn l. to lane for Welham Green (Balloon Corner junct. Dellsome Lane/Huggins Lane). Turn l. Station Road, take r.o.w. across fields to Water End. Cross Swanland Rd., re-cross A1(M) to N. Mymms ch. Head s. on rd. through N. Mymms Park, through Hawkshead Wood to s/post, turn r. to Redwell Wood fm, n. to Coursers fm, turn l. on rd, r. to Tyttenhanger fm, then n.e. across country to the Heath. Turn l. on the heath (woods) to St Marks ch (steeple), return to Colney Heath.

Pubs

Colney Heath: Several

Welham Green: Sibthorpe Arms

Water End: Woodman, Old Maypole

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.