LESS than 15 miles from central London, Harefield is surrounded by agricultural farmland, the Saxons having cleared away the forests. Sadly, Harefield's image became tarnished in the 19th Century when 28 of its inhabitants died of scarlet fever due to a reluctance to provide sewers.

The village green is central, with the 17th Century Kings Arms, Harefield's oldest pub, the pond, and granite war memorial to the glorious dead close at hand. I took to the road, but once I was crossing the fields, traffic noise gave way to the singing of larks, proof that even on the doorstep of the capital there is peace.

This path has been trodden for centuries, more so in the old days when people had no choice but to walk, but no longer, for it eventually disappears among meadows and hedgerows. The key lies with the overhead electricity lines. They act as guides to a dilapidated marker post, which confirms the right of way. Ahead, two stark lookout towers and the sound of gunfire suggest the presence of a prison camp of sorts.

I picked my way through fields to the left, my presence meriting the attention of horses which probably rarely see anyone hereabouts. As for the gunfire, I hoped they were not shooting stray walkers.

Ducks Hill is probably named after William Duck, who lived here in the 16th Century. A bridleway leads from the road through Ruislip Woods, which date back to prehistory. Wild boar and deer roamed here, until they cleared much of the area for crops and settlement, creating the Ruislip we have today. In keeping with local custom, William the Conqueror gave Ruislip to Ernulf de Hesdin and it passed to many others thereafter.

The woodland walk is excellent, with many choices of routes. Mine was to emerge at the main road again, which I crossed into Mad Bess Wood, now on the Hillingdon Trail.

Mad Bess was the wife of an 18th Century gamekeeper, a demented old woman who prowled the woods at night looking for poachers. "Beware Mad Bess" was the poacher's motto, with good cause, by the sound of it.

My woodland adventure complete, I crossed more fields to New Year's Green. Beyond a sign declaring "ice", an old track heads south. It's a grand half-mile, leading bac to the road, where, beyond the railway bridge, a right of way turns off at Brackenbury Farm, where my heart almost stopped at the sight and sound of two hostile German shepherd dogs which, thankfully, were securely fastened in their pen. I marched on, then climbed over a stile under the menacing glare of nearby geese. I didn't feel particularly welcome here.

Once again, I found myself on open meadowland, the path here waymarked with Colne Valley Footpath fingerposts. For a mile I crossed the fields, with not a soul seen. At last, I emerged at a golf course, crossed by the right of way, which leads unerringly between two giant lakes to the Grand Union Canal. This is a walk of contrasts: open meadows, ancient woodlands, and now alongside one of Britain's major waterways along with shooting ranges, wild dogs and geese. What more could anyone ask?

The Grand Junction Canal (as it was) is 93 miles long. This section, completed in 1796, was the most difficult to construct, due to the Colne valley being liable to flood. They had to provide pumps to keep the water out while they built brick chambers, not an easy task in those days, or today for that matter.

From London to the Midlands, the canal was the main artery for the transportation of coal and grain and people. Soldiers were sent to Ireland via the canals. Today, I had it to myself, save for a cyclist or two, the occasional jogger and the inevitable swans.

I carried on for Harefield, where I visited the old church, with the Australian military cemetery and tall obelisk. In the churchyard, a plate fixed to a bench carries a message: Walk gently through life. Good advice, don't you think?

Routefinder

Start and Finish Car Park, behind Harefield House, High Street, Harefield.

Abbreviations

l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house m. = mile s/post = signpost f/post fingerpost b/way = bridleway ch. = church f/p = footpath

Turn r. from car park, r. Breakspeare Rd. N., l. into Northwood Rd. Pass John Penrose school, turn r. at r.o.w. post (broken) at bend. Follow r.o.w. e. to overhead electricity wires. Head s., using wires as guide, then aim left of lookout towers, emerge on private road.

Turn l to Ducks Hill, r. 150 yds then cross rd, entering Copse Wood (Ruislip Woods). Head e. for quarter-mile, to X-roads, then s. half-mile, just over the hill, turning r. on Hillingdon Trail f/p. Cross rd. into Mad Bess Wood. Follow Hillingdon Trail one-third m., turning l. out of woods, then r. to main rd. Turn l. (south), taking f/p beyond Fine Bush Lane, to New Years Green, where turn r. at the rd., then l. past New Years Farm. Follow b/way to the main rd.

Turn r., pass under railway, turn r. at Brackenbury Fm. Follow Colne Valley Park f/p to Grand Union Canal. Head n. on towpath to Horse & Barge PH, take rd e. to Harvill Rd, where turn l. then r. opposite Priory Avenue to Harefield church. Continue n. to Harefield.

Note: Walkers may wish to divert to Denham Country Park, signposted by the Grand Union Canal. There are pubs in Denham.

Pubs

Harefield several

Denham village (off route) several

By Grand Union Canal, South Harefield Horse and Barge

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.