HARROW is first recorded in 767, when King Offa made a grant of land, its name then was Gum Eninga Hergae, but the Normans called it Harwo, more recognisable to modern-day citizens, although "Herga" lives on in the names of streets and organisations.

The town grew in the middle-ages, but development really began with the building of the Metropolitan Line in 1880.

Harrow-on-the-Hill station was a fitting place from which to start a walk. I headed up Grove Hill, towards the famous Harrow School. This is a bustling place, where schoolboys in straw-boaters have long hair and wear shirts hanging out of their trousers, just as schoolboys do everywhere.

Friday afternoon drivers passed at great speed, trying to get home as soon as possible for the weekend. How ironic that a plaque, headed "Take Heed", records the UK's first motor accident in which the driver of the car died. It happened at the bottom of grove Hill in 1899, although the plaque is at the top, at the junction with Peterborough Road. Local legend says that the coroner expressed the hope that nothing similar would ever happen again.

Opposite, another plaque recalls how, in 1646, the fleeing Charles I rested to take a last look at London and to water his horses at a spring that flowed here. His hair was even longer than that of the schoolboys.

Harrow School was founded by John Lyon, a middle-class landowner, who was granted a Charter by Elizabeth I. He decreed that each master was "to be on no account below the degree of Master of Arts". He died without seeing the fruits of his endeavours, nor could he have known that Harrow schoolboys would, in later years, be embroiled in hand-to-hand fighting with railway navvies at local taverns, although he might have been pleased that they evidently gave good account of themselves in this regard.

I headed for St Mary's Church, whose tall spire is one of the most prominent landmarks in London. The oldest parts of the church date back to 1140, although the spire wasn't added until around 1450. The wooden door, set into an archway under the tower, is clearly very ancient. By the end of the 18th Century the church was in a dilapidated condition, but was restored by Sir George Gilbert Scott.

Near the porch is the grave of one Thomas Port, who was killed in a railway accident in 1838. The unusual slate tombstone tells poetically of the story of how poor Mr Port's legs were "severed from his body by the railway train", and that he endured two amputations and died through loss of blood aged 33 years. "With pain distorted and overwhelmed with gore, E're noon arrived his mangled form they bore...". There can't be many whose demise is recorded so graphically on their headstone.

Beyond the church lies the tomb of John Peachey. Surrounded by iron bars, it's in a sorry state, and not only due to the natural ageing process: 21st Century vandalism is playing a part. Byron would sit and compose verse here. The views would inspire anyone: the far-off Chilterns, for example, and nearer (post-Byron), the Kodak factory, which once had its own power station and artesian well.

I retraced steps to the Bill Yard ("bill" meaning roll-call). The boys were lining up, very orderly, their books strung out haphazardly on the pavement. Nearby is the Old School, finished in 1615 and enlarged by Charles Robert Cockerell.

Yet another plaque adorns the wall, this time dedicated to Anthony Ashley Cooper, (later Earl Shaftesbury), who was "appalled at the conditions of the under-privileged". He led reforms, such as the prohibition of women and children working in coal mines, and played a part in the provision of lodging houses for the poor. He also assisted Florence Nightingale in improving army welfare, and took part in missionary work. Plaque, well-earned, sir.

Back on the grand prix circuit, I located a granite fountain which replaced the old town pump in 1880. Nearby, West Street dates from 1453. Along the High Street is the King's Head, once the departure point for coaches in and out of London. Henry VIII reputedly had a hunting lodge here.

Approximate distance: 3 miles

Start and Finish: Harrow-on-the-Hill Metropolitan Line station

Route

Station Approach (rear entrance to station), Station road, Hill Road, Lowlands Road, Grove Hill, Church Hill, St Mary's Church, High Street (return via Peterborough Hill to Station Road)

Directions

Cross Lowlands Road, ascend Grove Hill to Church Hill (Harrow School). Turn r. to St Mary's Church. Retrace steps, to Church Hill and High Street. Proceed to King's Head Hotel.

Pubs (all off route)

The Castle

White Horse

Cafe Cafe