IT'S not until you've dodged the traffic on the busy A404 and passed through the gateway by Chorleywood parish council offices that the verdant Chess valley, now directly ahead, can be appreciated.

A path leads through woodland to the river, and crosses a little footbridge. It's a lovely spot. I was lucky to arrive on a warm, spring day. Even the ducks, bobbing aimlessly on the river, were in a good mood.

The path leads to Sarratt Mill House, a 14th Century corn mill, later a paper mill. If, like me, you climb the hill to Church End, remember to look back at the view. You will not be disappointed. The valley is clothed in woodland, penetrated by the snake-like M25.

Today, the sun glinted brightly on the windscreens of the endless procession of cars, their constant roar unable to detract from the glory of the morning. Man's creation comes second to nature's best along the Chess valley.

The house on the hill is Goldingtons, reputedly haunted by a headless butler. "Beware of Dogs", the notice says. Turn away if you don't like ghosts or the prospect of being bitten. Instead, visit Holy Cross church, where the saddleback roof unusually lies transverse to the nave and chancel, and puddingstone shores up the tower.

The church goes back to around 1140, and was restored under the direction of Sir George Gilbert Scott, who worshipped here, in 1864. The churchyard is a perfect spot to savour an English spring morn.

Opposite the church, the Cock once served as village mortuary, and has a wide door to cater for the coffins. In 1665 victims of the Black Death were brought here and buried in a nearby field.

I took the right of way across open fields, ending up right alongside the M25, just feet away from the fixed-stares of motorists concentrating on their quest to get from A to B as soon as possible and never mind whatever the morning had to offer. I, not they, had the freedom to roam today.

The path through Whippendell Woods led unerringly to the Grand Union Canal, an ideal spot to look idly on as the eager crews of narrowboats negotiate Ironbridge lock.

Nearby, the manor of Cashio was once owned by St Albans abbey. Henry VIII sold it on, and a mansion in the style of the Palace of Versailles was built, and lots of trees were planted. The house was demolished in 1927, but the trees survive today in Cassiobury Park.

Heading west, excellent paths lead across the golf course and open farmland and across Croxley Green, back to the Chess valley where locals took in an after-lunch Sunday stroll.

I followed the river until I found myself among the splendid houses of Loudwater, where a signpost marked "Troutstream Way" points up a narrow, leafy path that threads its way between beautiful gardens. Wonderland, without Alice!

Park Avenue leads to a little path through quiet woods and under the M25.

The birds sing gaily here, as though in competition with the ceaseless roar from above. I looked up at the concrete mass, and found myself giving full marks for the graceful curve of the viaduct. If only they could get rid of the noise.

I made my way along Berry Lane, bound for King John's Farm. William Penn was married here, in 1672. Penn, a Quaker, was granted land in the American colonies by King Charles II, and became known for his fair treatment of Red Indians and the establishment of democratic elections.

He wanted to call the land Sylvania, but the King insisted he prefix it with his name: hence Pennsylvania.

The farm today comprises three cottages, one retaining the name. There's a coat of arms and a weather vane with Penn's initials.

Chorleywood Common comprises 200 acres of open space and woodland, and ponds once used by the drovers of old when they took their sheep and cattle to the market.

The Black Horse pub was moved to its present position by order of the Lord of the manor when the railway came. Evidently the navvies were too noisy for his liking. Today, the pub is ideally sited for a peaceful after-walk drink. Cheers!

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.