ESSENDON was once Aescendon, "the hill with the ash trees". The village stands on high ground, with extensive views from St Mary's Church.

A tablet over the west door of the church tells of a man, hanged in 1785, who "begged a grave in this churchyard", and prayed that his death would serve as a warning to others.

In the 19th Century, Richard Orme, rector for 52 years, was apprehensive about being buried alive, so his tomb, next to the ivy-covered fence, has a steel door at one end. He was buried with the key, and some bread and wine.

Not far away, the war memorial stands proudly on the site of the former village pump (removed 1910). The memorial records 32 lives sacrificed in two world wars. I headed along School Lane, where a signpost points to the Hertfordshire Way.

The path crosses a golf course and passes through woodland. It's a grand way to spend a morning. Finally, it leads to Little Berkhamsted (or Berkhampstead, if you will), with its old cottages and 17th Century church, St Andrews, of light-grey stone and blue-faced clock.

Thomas Ken, known as Bishop Ken, was born here, in 1631. He was chaplain to Princess Mary, wife of William of Orange, and later became Bishop of Bath and Wells.

The right of way leads towards "Stratton's Folly", a round tower-house of red brick. It was built in 1789 as an observatory and (so they say) to enable Mr Stratton, a retired admiral, to watch ships, from its castellated roof, as they sailed on the Thames. Whether he was successful in this regard is open to conjecture. He destroyed all documents relating to the building of his folly because he didn't want his relatives to know how much it cost to build it!

I headed south on excellent paths across meadows and into woodland again, then across country to Epping Green. A tall water tower was my guide on a metalled lane leading to what was once a grand house, sadly derelict now, the right of way surprisingly passing along the gravelled drive and through the garden.

Beyond, a path leads across open fields to pretty cottages at Tylers Causeway, and thence to Newgate Street.

The Hertfordshire Way here crosses open country. Striding along, you see woodland in every direction, with the now-distant Stratton's Folly peeping above the trees, as though reluctant to disappear from view.

A footpath leaves Cucumber Lane and enters a coppice of beech, for me the highlight of the walk, with autumn's fallen leaves underfoot, a thoroughfare laid out in copper and gold.

This would be joy at any time of year, and best of all is the likelihood that you will savour it alone. Do it, please.

At Wildhill, the open gates of Camfield Place seemed to offer invitation to enter. Alas, there is no right of way. Beatrix Potter is said to have found inspiration for her Peter Rabbit stories here, whilst in more recent times Dame Barbara Cartland has written of so many romances.

I followed West End Lane where a "public byway" sign points to a deep-rutted track leading off through woodland via an unsightly rubbish dump. The grooves that scour the path were a mystery at first, but the appearance of two motorcycle "scramblers", faces and motorcycles covered with mud, provided the answer.

They smiled broadly and passed a cheery greeting before roaring off, chunks of earth flying in their wake. Each to their own, I suppose but it's a pity about those grooves.

A mile further, there's a choice of route: a path on the right leading back to Essendon, another on the left to West End. I took the latter towards the Lea Valley, with easy walking all the way to the river, where a narrow trot leads off along the south bank. Finally I turned south for Essendon.

At the church, look out for a stone plaque in the wall, which tells of the damage caused by a German zeppelin in 1916.

Picture it, if you will: an airship hovering above, someone dropping explosives on to this beautiful church proof of the stupidity and futility of war.

Routefinder

Start and finish: Church of St Mary the Virgin, Essendon

Appreviations: l. = left. r. = right. n. s. e. w. = north, south, east, west. br. = bridge r.o.w. = right of way. PH = public house m. = mile s/post = signpost f/post = fingerpost b/way = bridleway ch. = church f/p = footpath

Proceed s. to High Road, turn l. School Lane. Past village hall, turn r. Hertfordshire Way f/p, golf course & woods to Little Berkhamsted.

From church, Little Berkhamsted, r.o.w. towards Stratton's Folly (in view), then south (before road), meadows & woods to Bucks Farm, then s. to Epping Green (Beehive PH).

Turn l, 50 yds, r. on Public Bridleway 22. Where lane turns sharp r. turn l. on gravelled drive of derelict house (no s/post) on r.o.w. to Tylers Causeway (road). Turn l. then r. thru 'Five Acres', head s. to w/end Newgate Street. Turn r. on Herts Way, past New Park Fm to Tylers Causeway (road).

Turn l. then r, Cucumber Lane then l. on public bridleway into beech woods. At B158 (Wildhill) turn l. then r. past Camfield Place, past The Woodman PH, turn r. into West End Lane. Turn r. 'Public Byway', turning l. to West End. Head w. then n. to the River Lea.Turn r. along river bank, then, r. on bridleway, taking f/p s.e. to road into Essendon.

Pubs

Essendon: Rose and Crown

Little Berkhamsted: Five Horseshoes

Epping Green: Beehive

Wildhill: The Woodman

West End: The Candlestick

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

For a printable map of the walk, please click the image below.